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Sunday, September 21, 2014

At the Masjid Kubah Emas

I've been technology-less for the past week since I left my laptop at the Asus Service Center in Jakarta. I'm not sure what kind of programs they're running on it right now but I actually just wanted them to open it so I could see what kind of battery it had and order a new one. That might have gotten lost in translation but it's been really refreshing not being tied to technology. I can still check email and charge my ipod on the school laptop sometimes, when it's here, so I am still attached to the threads of technology. 

So my update. On Saturday I joined my host parents on a sort of training camp for ibus (missus) wanting to make the hajj. They invited me about a month ago and were very excited when my tajemalela trip was cancelled and I could come. We met at the Islamic Center in Karawang Central at 6 in the morning, all of us wearing white (even me, even though I would only be watching the day's activities). A flock of ibus were milling about in the parking lot when we arrived. My host mother bought a new megaphone for this event because she was the HIIC (Head Ibu In Charge).
Our whole group filled three Agramas buses (similar to Greyhound). First, we drove one hour to Bekasi. This pilgrimage training center was right in the middle of industrial Bekasi and at first I was confused as to why we had driven an hour away to hang out at some cement factories. But we drove down a long driveway and entered a university campus, behind which sat a mock Ka'aba right in the middle of this big pit of sand.
The ibus were shepherded into the hot sun and crowded around a tour guide who explained for about an hour that this was the door of the Ka'aba (yeah....) and this is what you say at what point when you are walking around the Ka'aba and so on. It was very interesting to watch. They then migrated over to a sandy path between two sets of rocks and walked back and forth a few times, all the while saying verses from the Qur'an. Then time for a lunch break at the canteen and then a lecture (where my host mom and another guy from the training center - what I'm calling it - spoke for a few hours about making the pilgrimage).













During the lunch break I talked with an older woman and she surprised me by saying that she had already made the hajj in 2013. I asked her why she was here at hajj boot camp and she said it was spiritually refreshing. I guess if you only have the resources to make the hajj once then this is the next best thing. After lunch I unofficially volunteered for kid care and hung out with three kids for the rest of the afternoon until we left Bekasi. The mosque we were in was very beautiful with lattice doorways and a tall circular ceiling with Arabic writing around it. It was very light and bright.
 
Around 5 o'clock - after some bus troubles - we were off again. I asked Umi, my host mother, where we were going next and she said "another mosque." Early on in the day she handed me a huge bag of snacks, I guess as both a reward for sitting through everything and so that I wouldn't have to go wandering off in search for food. I'm not above bribery. They were delicious.

At 7 we squeezed into another narrow driveway right between some warungs in the middle of Depok, another town. After passing through a toll center the driveway opened into sprawling lawns with hundreds of rows of large flower pots with viney trees sitting atop stands on a neatly manicured lawn. I wanted to take a picture but at this point realized that my camera had died. A moment later I was very saddened by this fact when the "other mosque" came into view.

A while ago I read an article in the New York Times about 'thin places.' The Irish have a saying that goes, "heaven and earth are only three feet apart but in thin places that distance is even shorter." On Saturday night I visited a thin place. If you want to look up more pictures, it's called the Masjid Kubah Emas (Masjid Dian Al Mahri) in Depok, west Java.

We unloaded from the buses and there was a mad rush for the toilets. Then we ate some bakso. Then I was pulled into a gazillion photos and even bought one from an opportunistic photographer who could spot a gullible bule a mile away. Finally, it was time to pray and we entered this underground chamber where we gave our shoes to the Mistress of Shoes (who then turned them over to the custody of a bunch of kittens playing with the shoelaces in the cubbyholes). We went back above ground and came out into this grand courtyard in the shadow of the golden domes of the mosque. I was back on kid duty as I wasn't allowed to enter the mosque (no veil and also only Muslims are allowed inside) but that was A-OK because the courtyard was truly surreal, especially at night. There were some minarets and along the wall were glowing windows like hundreds of little moons with Arabic writing on them. The Imam sung the last prayer and I got tingles walking at the feet of the gigantic columns and occasionally looking in the stone portholes at the inside of the mosque.

I am now very glad I was placed in West Java and am especially glad that I was placed with a family who is able to take me on trips like these.

Friday, September 12, 2014

Working towards a spotless perspective

Sometimes starting fresh can be a drag. You have to force yourself to be an extrovert if you want a social life. There are a few people, thank God, who make that part easier – my counterpart, Bu Euis, comes to mind. We walked down the road during our break today to go check out a batik store. As we were walking single-file with motorists whizzing past she said to me, "I’ve only recently started to like walking." I asked her since when? She said, "since meeting you." We stopped first at the Indomaret five minutes down the road (my third home, after my real home and school) so that I could withdraw some cash from the atm and she could buy cereal paraphernalia (a two-bowl box of cornflakes and a small box of indo-milk). She said this was another one of my bule influences rubbing off on her. I can only hope that she will rub off on me. She is independent, enthusiastic, passionate, very interested in others and the person I would say I am closest with here so far. Her English is also pretty spot-on and, while that doesn't really help me with my bahasa Indonesia, it is nice being able to express myself somewhat fully to somebody.
 My other friends, or the people I see every day and am starting to have less what-are-the-differences-between-our-two-cultures conversations with, are the 5-10-year olds on my street, one 22-year old mother to four of those kids and some of the teachers at my school. We’re beginning to know things about each other: I know that this teacher is very blunt and is seen by the others as having a quick temper and that that teacher loves cooking and is a mother hen. I found out yesterday that Bu Euis is one of the youngest teachers at MAN Karawang and that most of the staff were her teachers not even a decade ago. As for me, they know that I really don’t like taking photos with people before even being introduced and that I think touching mothers’ bellies so that their babies might have lighter skin is wrong and pretty f’ed up (not on the part of the mothers, of course, just culturally-speaking.) Oh, and that I like cereal and gado-gado (mixed veggies with peanut sauce) and DEFINITELY NOT EVER spicy food please and thank you.
In addition to an English club for students I have started one for teachers on Tuesdays and Wednesdays (because they are all so busy they can choose which time suits them best) and that has opened some conversational doors. We reviewed expressions of food this week and now all of my recruitees will come up to me between classes with their notebooks and ask (while laughing), "Do you…no no no…Have you eaten yet?" Food is and always will be a fail-safe conversation with people of any culture, I’m convinced. And besides, the enthusiasm and good but undisruptive humor the teachers have is a welcome reprieve from the craziness of the classroom.
The bule effect has started to wane at my school, which is both a blessing and a curse for me. It is a curse in that I actually have to command a class’s attention with more than my differentness now. Sternness is about as foreign to me as Sundanese so this usually ends up as an uneven silent match where I purse my lips and will them to be silent and the class clowns finally cave into the pressure of a few "good students" several minutes later….not very effective but such is my learning curve.
Reverting to the basics in just about all aspects of communication – how to command attention, how to discuss food, directions, objects, activities – is stressful, if necessary. Mostly stressful in just how routine and elementary it feels. Those days are what Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind and Philip Dick are for – a slice of the strange and beautiful that I’m used to; an immediate connection. That is what I miss when routine gets the better of me; I miss having strange/beautiful discussions and experiences with others. But I feel refreshed once I retreat to that place of nostalgia; refreshed and ready for a paradigm shift. As difficult as it is sometimes to dive below the surface when you are the outsider looking in at this immense reflection of the whole, things eventually become familiar and only once you have established the familiar can you deviate.
Teaching reflections aside, my cultural assimilation woes are not to say that there isn’t plenty of strange in the world around me. Strange and beautiful are the two words I hear most often in the context of describing Indonesia. The persistent heat, the endless rice fields with coils of mist hanging about at dawn and dusk, the people defecating in those fields unashamedly, the calls to prayer echoing eerily over loudspeakers everywhere you go, the different mentality of waste disposal here (littering is not a word in their lexicon, trash burning is the only means of waste management I’ve yet seen) and the unconditional respect kids show to adults. There is definitely a lot of exotic in the world around me, but as of late, when I’ve been busy immersing myself in the world of teaching, it has not been present in my internal environment. Not consistently at least.
As soon as I finished writing this, however, my siblings invited me to launch their kite that they just received from my mom stateside. And so we spent a gorgeous afternoon in the Indonesian sunshine flying a kite in the squallish breezes. Oh, simple pleasures. And I realize we are indeed all just "strangers in a play in this strangest of theatres.." Sometimes you share a laugh with someone over a stupid joke and that person is no longer a stranger.
Putting the kite together.
Up, up and...
down.
maybe if we run
closer


Selfie time!
No wait -- she's up! The word for kite in BI is layang-layang. I think this is much more fitting.
Ok, we don't care about kites anymore.