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Monday, August 18, 2014

The Instinctual Community

Indonesia is changing me. I believe it takes at least 5 or 6 months (more or less) in a new place to begin to realize the small changes that have occurred within you since moving. This is just the time it takes to adapt to and adopt some of the cultural norms as second nature. I now salim every person I meet. I then ask them how they’re doing to which they reply “baik, Alhamdulillah” (good, God willing.) I’m also now comfortable saying no thanks to 70 % of the offers of snacks and tea and “I’m so sorry but please dear God no” to around 50 % of the requests for photos (on a good day). In other words, at this 5 month mark I am comfortable enough with the customs to set small boundaries – no small feat for me in any country.

 My body too, is adapting. Although the majority of the food I eat is similar to what I ate in America (i.e. rice, tempeh, vegetables, fruit, chicken, beef) I have dropped some foods like almost all dairy, with the exception of eggs, and added new fruits to my diet: jackfruit, durian, salak and jengkol (also the name of my street, which makes everyone laugh for some reason. The closest I’ve come to understanding this is that jengkol smells bad…) The days when cereal upsets my stomach are times of deep reflection for me on just how much adaptation is required for this experience. My digestive system and I have gone through a lot together over the past few months and I wonder sometimes when, if ever, I will adapt to the new bacteria, climate…etc.

 I love going to new places. I’m rarely at peace when sitting still. I think because of this restlessness I always ask friends, “so what do you want to do today?” implying that being active is necessary to have a productive/satisfactory day. This summer has been different from ones past in some respects, namely in that I haven’t asked that question of anyone and I don’t feel too concerned with planning out my own activities. It may be a phase or part of acclimating to the pace of life in West Java. I have not been on any exotic trips lately and yet I don’t feel bored. There is rarely a dull moment when you are in a communal setting. My school is a tight-knit community where the teachers all pile into a caravan to drive 3 hours away to see a fellow teacher’s newborn and the students come in on Sunday, their one day off, to do art projects or practice sports. Today, Indonesia’s Independence day (Selamat Murdeka!), when I went in to use the wifi to skype, I was met with the usual four or five students milling around. Later, after the flag ceremony in Karawang Central, several dozen students sat in clusters cutting up red and white tissue paper into little flags to hang around the school. There were no teachers around and they hadn’t been asked to make these decorations, they just wanted to hang out and celebrate Independence Day. When asked, I told some of them that among my family and friends we usually just eat a lot and watch fireworks on our Independence Day in America.

My family is also their own readily inclusive, ever-active unit and the neighborhood I live in has its own communal thread. I am guilty of taking plenty of time for personal space, but with neighborhood kids wanting to play hide and seek and my siblings running around telling me there’s a cat at the back door or a soccer game about to start or my host parents always hosting some event, I find that I don’t want for personal space as much as I used to.

Since moving out of my own intentional community I’ve sought out different communal lifestyles and, of course, each has their own unique features. I believe we are social creatures whose lives are shaped by those around us and so I believe I will always be intensely interested in seeing how different communities work. Here, the communal spirit exists within each and every person as much as it has with the closest friend group I’ve ever had the good fortune to be a part of. It’s cultural; togetherness isn’t just a habit, it’s an instinct. Every time my family is hosting an event the kitchen is filled with 7-8 women who cook the enormous amounts of food the night before, clean up and then pray with my host mother before leaving the next day. My host mother never actually cooks for any of these events, so abundant is the help of our neighbors. I might have had a slightly different experience if I weren’t living in the house of one of the most active and influential families in the neighborhood (as I’ve been told by several outside sources), but I’m sure the customs would be observed just the same anywhere I was. Indonesians are some of the nicest, most social people I have ever met. I’ll rephrase that – Indonesians are the nicest, most social people I’ve ever met. Personal space may not always exist but in the end that doesn’t matter much. From sunrise to sunset their lives are threads in a larger picture and I think they are beautiful for it.

Also, my camera is temporarily out of commission so I apologize for the copious text without a visual oasis. Please see this article if this is a problem for you.

Friday, August 8, 2014

First day of school

Due to problems with blogger, wasn't able to post this til now. Written 2 days ago...

10 months and 6 days ago I joined the Peace Corps, meaning that on that day, November 1st, 2013, I sent in my acceptance letter and was officially marked an “active” volunteer. Today, Thursday, August 7th, 2014 I started teaching. I wrote a blog post a while ago titled “Wow, we might finally be teaching” in reference to our practicum assignments, but today felt different. I’ve spent all of my summer break here in Karawang, and many days at school getting the lay of the land and entertaining myself with the school’s free wifi. I met many students that way, who apparently hang out at school even during summer break. Although “liburan” or summer vacay is traditionally a time for people to visit their families and take a trip to the beach if they can afford it, these are high schoolers so they 1. Live with their families already and 2. Would rather hang out with their friends buying es candol or bakso from street vendors whose familiar jingles (like hitting a wood block for bakso or playing a recorded tune for es candol) are now an integral part of my Indonesian experience.

Today at 6:30, when I arrived at school, the small courtyard and open air hallways were crowded with students. It felt like a time warp. Suddenly I was back at my first day of high school, amidst the noise and lack of haste, fighting against the slow-moving current of students who were in no particular hurry to be anywhere soon. It was easy to pick out the freshmen because the anxiety in their faces – from trying to decipher a cryptic schedule, to be in the right place at the right time, to not say something stupid that would make everyone laugh at you – mirrored my own.

You sort of flash forward and backward in one moment, trying to draw on previous experiences and, at the same time, sensing that you’ll feel generally the same at the end of this endeavor; the dual exhaustion of beginning and leaving.

But I was not a blank slate today; I felt at least a little prepared to wing this teaching thing. One teacher in one of my years of high school included a quote on her syllabus that learning is not passive. If learning is active then teaching is definitely so. I walked into my first class with my counterpart a few minutes after seven with a scribbled down copy of the lesson plan we had made yesterday and a mindset of walking into a battle zone. Despite having “met” all of these students already, this was the moment I was to make my first impression as a teacher. We reviewed basic introductions and gave out a pre-test. It was not the circus I remembered. I have been reading a book the Peace Corps gave us called “More than a Native Speaker” the past month. It’s really some of the best preparation I’ve received for this gig. I got the idea of giving a pre-test from it. I thought it would be cool for the students to measure their own progress by the end of the semester. I had seen and been warned about cheating. The mentality in Indonesia is that knowledge is collective; if one person knows the answer they are being rude if they don’t share. I knew this but it was still painful to witness with my own students.

After the first class my counter-part and I discussed different methods we would use to discourage cheating. She was on the same page with me at least and had several success stories to share. It made me feel better but in this area I still felt the most unprepared (discipline has never been my strong suit). We told them several times to do the work alone and explained that it was not for a grade and we only wanted to know a bit about them and where they were with their English, but they paid little attention except when listening to us. The questions we asked them were all very subjective, such as “what is your experience learning English?” and “what is your favorite movie/song/book in English?” As a class we translated the questions into Bahasa Indonesia but barely had they finished copying down the questions when they turned around to consult their neighbors. I collected their answers with a heavy heart, fully expecting 40 identical sheets of paper but was pleasantly surprised to find a wide variety of really funny answers.

Some of the best from class 12 were:

1. What is your experience with learning English?
               - Not homework.

2. Why do you want to learn English?
                - Because that is not too cheesy.
                - Because, in order to smooth talk with people America.
                - Because, learn English is so funny.

3. What is your favorite book/song/movie in English?
                - Song we will not go down. Because the Struggle of life.
                - Avenged Sevenfold because stay cool.

4. Tell us one interesting fact about yourself.
                - My self is always happy every day because no boy no cry.
                - I don’t like and hate rat. Hell yeah!

So, here’s to blank slates!